Tuesday, December 20 (The Drake Passage)

Despite having a peaceful slumber my first night on the ship, I awoke with a dose of the much dreaded sea sickness. I was quite unhappy about my current condition as well as embarrassed. Embarrassed because the Drake Passage, infamous for its rough sea conditions was as calm as can be expected. Yet, I was still ill! Nonetheless, I was able to have a fantastic day with the help of Dramamine, ginger, and plenty of water. It was an incredible sensation to sail through the Drake Passage which is known by seaman as the Drake Lake when winds and waves are mild. When conditions are rough as one expects of the Drake Passage, it is known as the Drake Shake. Drake Passage’s 500 mile wide passage is the shortest crossing from Antarctica to any other landmass. It is the spot where the Atlantic, Pacific, and Southern Seas converge, creating a roaring current mix. Yet, the National Geographic Explorer glided through the open water with ease.
After learning about the storm petrels, prions, and albatrosses from naturalist Doug Gaultieri, we headed out to the stern of the ship for a look. Even though the calm conditions make it difficult for many seabirds to fly, we spotted some of the largest seabirds including Giant Petrels and Wandering Albatrosses. Behind the ship was a beautiful Brown-Browed Albatross, hundreds of miles from land. Not once during my observation of this regal seabird did it flap its wings which span ten feet. The Albatross is designed to live on the water. This is their environment, not ours. My morning bout with motion sickness was proof that unlike the birds of the ocean, I am not destined for a life at sea. Still, the ship’s resources, observation decks, and staff planted in me a passion for all that exists above and below the surface of Earth’s oceans.
That evening, the temperature dropped from 9 degrees Celsius to 2 degrees while thick fog permeated the skies. Change was in the air. We continued south toward the Antarctic Convergence zone with an eager anticipation for what the morning would bring.