Sunday, December 25 (Mikkelsen Harbor & Cierva Cove)
“I’m dreaming of a white Christmas…” This famously sung line by Bing Crosby epitomizes Christmas day in Antarctica. Ice surrounded the ship, taking on many forms: glacial, tabular, sea, and fast. Most people spend Christmas morning gathered around the tree opening gifts and sipping hot chocolate. I, on the other hand, spent Christmas morning kayaking along the shore of Mikkelson Harbor among thousands of pieces of broken sea ice. The rocky islet is located on the western side of the Antarctic Peninsula. On land, Weddell Seals were vocalizing while they lie on the snow. The sounds were like nothing of this world. The pops, whistles, and vibrations captivated my attention; they were exciting but peaceful. Beyond the Weddell Seals was a small Gentoo Penguin colony. Right in the middle of the mound of penguins’ nests rested three giant Elephant Seal pups.
Snow Falls Around Elephant Seals and Gentoo Penguins
It is incredible to think that these young mammals would grow to over twice this size. The Gentoos were obviously unhappy that a number of their manicured nests were ruined. In fact, I witnessed a penguin intentionally peck at an Elephant Seal’s tail that caused the seal to open its mouth and threateningly reveal its large teeth. The penguin did not seem too concerned. The massive seals move like slugs on land.
Before leaving the islet, flakes of snow began to fall from the skies. I stopped in my tracks to make a panoramic viewing of my surroundings. I was lost in the moment, in utter disbelief that I was in Antarctica on Christmas and it was snowing.
Not long after returning to the ship, we were informed of a pod of Killer Whales at the bow of the ship. These weren’t just any Killer Whales; they were Type A, the largest species of orcas in the world. These creatures were incredible! One even rolled on its back to reveal its pearly white belly for several seconds before blowing bubbles and leaving our view.
Type A Killer Whale
The whales were never out of sight for long. The orcas would surface when we least expected, (quite close to the ship I might add), as if they were playing a game of hide and seek.
Just when I thought our whale adventures couldn’t get any better, I went for an afternoon Zodiac cruise at Cierva Cove. Intended to be an ice cruise, it quickly turned into much more. Out of the ice we spotted a whale blow. The boat neared the sighting to find the tale of a Humpback Whale diving into the water. We noticed lively bubbles at the surface of the ocean; the whale was coming up for air right next to our Zodiac. Enjoying a buffet of krill in the cove, the whale seemed undisturbed by our presence. We anxiously watched for the next rush of bubbles on the water’s surface. Never could I be bored with witnessing a giant marine mammal like this Humpback Whale in Antarctica.
At Cierva Cove, there is an Argentina Base called, Base Primavera. We were told by the staff that it was doubtful anyone was stationed there at the moment. They were mistaken. Three Argentinian researchers radioed the ship to request to come aboard for a shower and a hot meal. How could they be denied? It was Christmas for goodness sake. The guest scientists came aboard the National Geographic Explorer and were so gracious for the generosity. They shared their current research on lichen and moss growing in Antarctica before enjoying a Christmas dinner of lobster tail and halibut. My Christmas in Antarctica was much different than what I am usually accustomed to. However, the moments I experienced will make this year’s holiday one to remember.
